Needles Japan
Needles Japan is the Tokyo label from the Nepenthes group, and its track pants are cut on Japanese sizing. Below the grid I explain the label's Tokyo roots, how to convert your size and how to order from abroad.
Needles Japan is the Tokyo label from the Nepenthes group, and its track pants are cut on Japanese sizing. Below the grid I explain the label's Tokyo roots, how to convert your size and how to order from abroad.
Needles Japan refers to Needles, a Tokyo label founded in 1995 by Keizo Shimizu and run inside the Nepenthes group. Its clothes are designed and sized for Japan, so they run roughly one size smaller than US sizing. Buying from outside Japan simply means sizing up once and checking which sizes are stocked.
Needles was founded in Tokyo in 1995 by Keizo Shimizu. It belongs to the Nepenthes group, a Japanese company with a long habit of looking at American clothing closely and then making it stranger and better. Its sister labels are Engineered Garments and South2 West8, and the group runs Nepenthes shops in Tokyo, New York and elsewhere.
That family context explains a lot about the clothes. Nepenthes labels share a respect for workwear, military and sporting garments, but each one bends them differently. Needles bends them toward sportswear and western dress: track pants with a butterfly on the thigh, cowboy shirts in shiny poly sateen, jackets covered in piping. When someone searches "Needles Japan" or "Needles Tokyo", they are usually looking for that specific handwriting.
It also explains why the label feels consistent across decades. The track pant has appeared every season in collection-specific colours, cut in a small set of fits. You can buy one this year and one five years from now and they will sit together in a wardrobe. For a longer history of the founder and the papillon, read the Needles brand history guide.
Japanese sizing is cut for a slighter frame than most US brands assume. In practice, Needles runs roughly one size smaller than US sizing. A US medium usually becomes a Needles large, and a US large usually becomes an XL. Most people size up one for a relaxed fit.
The size letters on the tag look familiar, which is the trap. S, M, L and XL mean something different on a Tokyo pattern. I never quote garment measurements for Needles, because they shift between fabrics and seasons, and a number without context misleads more than it helps. Instead I rely on two things: the fit name and the drawcord.
The fit name tells you where the volume sits. The drawcord elastic waist tells you how much room for error you have. Together they make Japanese sizing far less risky than it sounds. My detailed notes by fit are in the Needles size chart and the Needles track pants size guide.
For twelve years I have sourced Tokyo labels and fitted them on clients who were not built like the fit models in a Japanese showroom. Needles has been a constant in that work, and a few patterns repeat so often that I can predict them before the client puts the pants on.
Tall, lean clients are the easiest. They size up one in the H.D. Trackpants in Black ($210) and the length lands with a slight break over the shoe. The volume at the knee looks exactly as intended, because there is enough leg for the darts to show their shape.
Clients with bigger thighs or a fuller seat need more thought. The H.D. is actually kind to them, since the room sits where they need it, but the Narrow is not. In the Narrow Track Pants in Grey Velour ($249) I often go up two sizes for these builds, then pull the drawcord in. Velour also has a little give, which helps.
Shorter clients worry about length. With the H.D., the hem darts gather the fabric back in at the ankle, so extra length stacks rather than drags. I have seen five foot six clients wear an L comfortably for that reason. With a straight or slim fit, the extra length is more visible, so I stay closer to their true size.
Jackets follow the same rule but with less drama. The Needles Track Jacket in Navy ($220) is meant to layer, so going up one gives you room for a hoodie or knit underneath. The sleeve taping is the giveaway if a jacket is too small: the stripes should run clean down the arm, not twist toward the elbow.
The last pattern is about fabric over time. After a few washes, the jersey on an H.D. relaxes and softens. The fit does not grow, but it drapes more. Clients who bought a size that felt just right on day one often end up loving it after a month.
| Piece | Fit / Silhouette | Waist | Sizes stocked | Price here |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H.D. Trackpants (Black, Navy, Purple, Taupe) | Wide, darts at waist and hem | Drawcord elastic | S, M, L, XL | $210 |
| H.D. Trackpants (Olive, Sax, Wine) | Wide, darts at waist and hem | Drawcord elastic | S, M, L, XL | $220 |
| H.D. Track Pants (Azure, Dark Green, Navy Blue) | Wide, loose and structured | Drawcord elastic | S, M, L, XL | $245 |
| Narrow Track Pants (Velour) | Slim fit | Drawstring elasticated | S, M, L, XL | $249 |
| Track Jacket (Charcoal) | Sporty, easy to layer | Not applicable | S, M, L | $220 |
Two pieces I would point a first overseas order toward: the H.D. Trackpants in Olive ($220), which is the most versatile of the brighter colours, and the H.D. Track Pants in Dark Green ($245), which pairs with the Track Jacket in Dark Green ($245) for a full set.
The grid above holds the Japanese-cut pieces I recommend most. For more depth, open the Needles H.D. track pants collection, the narrow track pants or the Needles jackets collection. Everything else sits in the full shop, and the Needles tracksuit collection groups matching tops and bottoms.
Standard shipping is free worldwide on every order. Tracking is emailed once the order ships, and estimated delivery runs 6 to 27 business days depending on location and customs, as the shipping policy sets out. Exchanges or store credit are available on unused, unwashed items with tags within 7 days of delivery under the refund policy; there are no cash refunds. Wrong or defective items reported with photos within 48 hours of delivery get a replacement or store credit.
On H.D. Track Pants, the Two-Pair Set brings two pairs to $336 and three to $472.50. Support is at [email protected], with replies usually within 48 hours, or through the contact page. If you want the plain facts about ordering from this site, read the Needles Japan store guide and why Needles Japan prices differ abroad. The guides here are written by me; my background and testing method are on the Ren Aoki bio page.
Yes. Needles is a Japanese label founded in Tokyo in 1995 by Keizo Shimizu. It is part of the Nepenthes group, which also runs Engineered Garments and South2 West8 and operates Nepenthes shops in Tokyo, New York and other cities. The clothes are designed in Japan and cut on Japanese sizing, which is why they run small for most US and European buyers.
Go up one size from your usual US size as a starting point, because Japanese sizing runs roughly one size smaller. A US medium usually lands as a Needles large. Then adjust for the fit: the H.D. is roomy and forgiving, while the Narrow is slim and may need another size up on a heavier build. The drawcord elastic waist takes care of any looseness at the top.
Yes. You can order Needles track pants and jackets here with free standard shipping worldwide, a tracking number emailed on dispatch and an estimated delivery of 6 to 27 business days depending on location and customs. The sizing is the same Japanese sizing you would find in Tokyo, so the one-size-up rule still applies. Check the sizes stocked on each product page before ordering.